Day 57: Surprises

Special day today, it’s Morgan’sb irthday, my beloved number one daughter. Happy birthday Morgan and thank you for all the work you are doing as my media editor especially when I have no access to signal or WIFI.

Today I am on a bit of a treasure hunt. Before I left on this trip, one of my closest friends told me to take a can of petrol with me, a snow shovel and try to find Eisenhower’s flat which he thought was somewhere in Kilmarnock and had gold plated bathroom taps. Really?

I drove to the car park in Tesco and rang him to check that Kilmarnock was the right place.

“Where are you?” he asked

“In Kilmarnock”

“Is it pretty there?”

“Not from where I am sitting, no. I’ve seen signs to somewhere called Dean’s Park though. Maybe that’s pretty.”

"The place I remember where Eisenhower had his flat, has a lake. Is there a lake there?”

“No idea. I will ask customer services in Tesco." 

Well, it was early on Sunday morning and no-where else was open.
I popped into Tesco and made a beeline for Customer Service.

“Morning,” I said to the lady behind the counter. “I have three quick questions.”

“Do you sell Haggis Crisps?”

They do so I bought some.

Can one get Irn-Bru in Brighton or do I need to get some here?

She told me to ring the Brighton Tesco and ask them as she only dealt with the Tesco in this area of Scotland. She suggested to be on the safe side that I take a 16 pack back with me.

She hasn’t seen the size of Gloria and I want a couple of cans not a whole pallet. I have tried it – its undrinkable.

“Any idea where Eisenhower’s Flat is?” 

She had no idea who Eisenhower was, let alone whether he had ever had a flat in Kilmarnock. If it was in Kilmarmock it was obviously still a state secret.
 I was about to give up when I spotted the security guard, an elderly man with ramrod straight military bearing and the moustache to match. Bingo! 

“Is Eisenhower’s Flat in Kilmarnock?"

“No."

“Oh, shame.” I was disappointed.

“It’s at Calzean Castle about thirty miles away.” And he gave me clear directions to get there.

Result.

As I was heading there a thought occurred to me: Robert Burns the Scottish poet. In spite of his fame he hasn’t entered my consciousness at all during my trip round the coast of Scotland. That’s probably a bit remiss of me, and as though I had suddenly conjured him u,p a sign flashed past me on the A77 warning me that average speed cameras were being switched on from Monday morning and that I was just a mile or two from Robert Burns Bachelors Club run by Scottish National Trust.
No such thing as coincidence. I swerved left and went to take a look.

What a sweet little museum and what strange neighbours it had. This was all around it...

Here it is. It was just three rooms and I was lead around by Alastair who wanted me to remind people that National Trust Scotland is waiving membership and entrance fees at all their tiny museums until September so you can get in free with no membership requirement. It will take you about fifteen minutes to go round this tiny place. 

230 years ago this was the place to socialise for all the single young men in the area. Basically it was a small ale house with a room at the side where the ale was brewed. Upstairs was a third room which, although very small, was used for dances and meetings and as a sort of Toastmasters Club. It was where Burns learnt to perform in public. The local Masonic Lodge met there too.

Alastair did know about Eisenhower’s Flat and told me to call in at Robert Burns birth place as it was on route.

I did. Another sweet little museum with a garden but actually not a great deal to see.

That’s because just down the road is a fabulous Robert Burns Centre – an interactive celebration of his life and works. It was really good – as good as the Culloden Experience. National Trust Scotland can be very proud of both of them  

 

On to Calzean!

My friend was an international garden designer before an awful car accident left him with a broken neck about twenty years ago. He has always loved trees and green. There are are lot of tree here and  its very green.
Looks like this might be the right place. 

Lovely grounds full of native and exotic trees, a walled garden and - a lake!

I found Eisenhower’s office in the castle...

In a tiny auditorium they showed a film about the history of this very beautiful castle. Eisenhower came here during the war to talk and test submarines. The castle is beside the sea. After the war he was rewarded with a  flat on the third floor. He only visited it four times and none of the staff knew anything about gold bathroom fittings. I couldn’t check it out for myself as that part of the castle is now a hotel and not open to the public. I suspect the gold fittings have long gone to pay for the upkeep of this romantic and lovely place.

The castle is a day out. It not only has extensive woodland, the walled garden, tea rooms and the castle itself, it also has a wonderful wooden castle play park for children. 

National Trust Scotland is very aware that in the past the organisation has perhaps had a bit of a ‘fuddy duddy’ reputation. They are working hard to overcome that. Both Calzean the Robert Burns experience have come up with a childrens' guide book in a cartoon format. I think they are great. I wonder if English National Trust is doing the same.

Once I left the castle the weather closed in and there was little to see in the countryside of Galloway as I headed to Dumfries.

I found the farmhouse where I was to stay and was surprised that my new host Brian looked strangely familiar. He had told me they would be out until 5pm with their daughter who was in some sort of production. Then she walked in.

I am 100 miles from Buchanan Street in Glasgow, in a farmhouse down a muddy track on the outskirts of Dumfries and the child is the same one who was busking and whose photo I put in yesterday's blog.

What were the chances of that happening? As good as my winning the lottery I suspect.

Ruby Darbyshire is Brian and Jo’s daughter. Brian has musical instruments all over the house and  even has a small compact recording gizmo. Ruby has been busking in public since was 4! She is now 9 and the Darbyshire's have decided to take her out of school and travel for a few months probably in Europe. Ruby will be earning them all their travelling money. She plays guitar, ukulele, harmonica and bagpipes. She already has a website www.rubydarbyshire.com where you can see her performing. 
I suspect this is a case of  watch this space and remember her name.