Monday, 11 July 2016

Day 71: Lafrowda and Falmouth via Penzance and St. Michael’s Mount

Last night was good fun. In the centre of St. Just there is an odd shaped turfed depression with raised sides creating something a bit like a doughnut. It also resembles a shallow amphitheatre. In Cornish they call it a Plain-an-Gwarry, and in medieval times it might have been used to perform mystery plays. This tradition has been revived, and the community at St. Just gather here for all sorts of events. Last night it was a barbecue and Ceilidh which turned out to be outdoor country dancing to a great little band and with a very enthusiastic caller. The food was supplied by locals, including a farm who were doing a great line in Burgers and hot dogs. People not dancing sat on the raised banks with drinks and food.


Lafrowda Festival is now an annual event that began as a music festival in the late 1990’s and has expanded to become a two week community arts festival. The name Lafrowda is the ancient name for the church lands where the village stands today. Next weekend, the festival culminates in three spectacular processions. 

 





Helen took me to see the workshop where they are making the lanterns to carry in the procession. Everything is made of withies and tissue paper and lit up at night. Everything has to be manually portable – no lorries or trucks allowed.



This year’s theme is Fast and Furious. 


Only 4000 people live in this village. It punches well above its weight in terms of community engagement. When I think of a carnival this is what I think of, rather than endless lines of badly decorated lorries that pass off for a carnival in many much bigger seaside towns including my own. I find it creatively very frustrating.  Google La Frowda Festival 2016 and you will see what I mean.




Before I left Helen showed me a You Tube video of the St.Just Womens’ Institute Rag Rug exhibitions. The work is amazing and would be fabulous displayed in any art gallery of National Trust property in the country.

Today I am heading to Falmouth via Penzance. I passed the bank in St. Just.


And then saw this one in Penzance.


But at least they have banking facilities at a time when banks are becoming restaurants and everyone is expected to bank on line. All well and good as long as you get the internet, and as I have discovered so many coastal towns and mountain areas do not.

I liked Penzance. For a small market town it has a blend of branded high street  shops and individual ones too. It’s known to be the most major westerly town in Cornwall and is known as the capital. I think Prince Charles and Camilla are due here for a visit next week.

The statue outside the bank is the town’s most famous historical figure Sir Humphrey Davy who was the scientist who also invented the Davy safety lamp. It was just what miners needed ,so that the flame would not ignite any gases underground.


Don’t you just love the seagull on his head? I seem to remember that my photo of Captain James Cook in Whitby weeks ago, also had a seagull on his head too.

Chapel Street in the old town is full of interesting buildings but this one looks very odd and rather flamboyant. It has an ‘Egyptian’ facade  and a royal coat of arms presumably to remind us that we are actually in Britain not Cairo?


Apparently it was commissioned at a time in Europe when people were fascinated by all things exotic and particularly exotic Egypt. Its architect was John Foulston of Plymouth and it was intended to be a museum of natural curiosities. Today it belongs to the Landmark Trust and it has retail premises on the ground floor, and the top two floors comprise of holiday flats available for renting.

Penzance has singing pirates I believe but I never saw or heard any. (Sorry I couldn’t resist - attempt at a bad joke.)

My real reason for visiting was to get close to St. Michael’s mount, a small island in Mount Bay. Failed miserably as Marazion was so crowded I couldn’t park there at all.


At low tide one can walk along the causeway in Marazion to reach St. Michael’s mount but today the tide was well and truly in so it was off limits to me as I would have had to take a boat. The National Trust are responsible for the upkeep of the gardens, the castle, and the medieval church on the island. I think this landmark and the Minack theatre are the most famous of the Cornish landmarks and the most recognisable. Visiting this one will have to be another time and definitely not in July.

I liked Penzance but I LOVED Falmouth.



It’s on the river Fal on the south coast of Cornwall and I thought it was quite beautiful. One of my favourite places I think. To begin with I could park there!

It’s winding streets had a wonderful variety of shops and good foodie places.


It is home to the National maritime Museum on the waterfront


It has a castle called Pendennis Castle built by Henry the Eighth, and great walks along the estuary.

While I have been away Eastbourne Council was proposing that a new restaurant planned to replace the Wish Tower Restaurant was going to be run by Rick Stein. How odd. How can he be in two places or even three places, at once?  Falmouth and Bridport have Rick Stein restaurants.

  
In Falmouth I stayed with a lovely lady who was far more travelled than me. An intrepid backpacker there were few places in the World where she hasn’t set foot. Charlotte travels with a small black dog called Sacha, and I had been in her home less than twenty minutes when she was encouraging me to undertake the coast of Ireland!!  She had a VW transit van with windows inserted and a normal sized bed in the back. That had served her well for years all over the place but she has bitten the bullet and tomorrow she becomes the sheepishly proud owner of a small neat Ford motor home with all mod cons.

We drank a bottle of good red wine to celebrate.

Mmmm food for thought. At least it is small and neat and a Ford – unlike my bête noire the Monster Camper vans and if I were to do Ireland sometime.......

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