Day 79: Brighton

My last day. I can’t believe it!!! 79 days since I left Eastbourne on May 1^st to take my mum’s ashes around the coast of Britain.

Today has to be Brighton but I wanted a different Brighton to the usual tourist stuff so I asked Ben my son in law and Freya my beloved number two daughter - who both live there - for my what to see and what to do list.

Brighton has a myriad of claims to fame that deserve a week at least and a whole book to itself: in history, in film, in sordid court cases, in Pride Marches, in fiction and in being a wonderful vibrant city host to the Festival every May, and for being the home of choice of two of my favourite people.

So...

• Kemptown not Churchill Square
• West Pier not Palace Pier
• North Laines not The Lanes
• Open Market London Road not Western Road 
• Duke of York Theatre not Cineworld
• Not the Wheel but the i360

I parked up in Elm Grove as Brighton is also famous for very expensive parking, and walked first to the Open Market in London Road. It is called the open market but it is actually a large covered space with a wide variety of interesting stalls, little shops and small studio spaces on their first floor. 

It is heading towards becoming  like London’s Convent Garden particularly since its renovation.  Lots of interesting foods and ethical products as well as traditional fruit and veg.

Ice-cream is my favourite food group. I had one of the best ice-creams of my whole trip at Mathers in the market.

The North Laines are also a favourite destination of mine and judging by the crowds thronging the narrow streets or indulging at street cafes and watching the world strut by, a favourite haunt of everyone else's too. 

Every time I enter these labyrinthian streets new shops have sprung up amongst the established retailers, like mushrooms. Noticeable but unsurprising for Brighton, lots of male grooming outlets on this visit particularly products for beards!

The Laines are extremely eclectic and attract all sorts of shopping experiences and people. 

Brighton has sad side - a large homeless population and regretably  they were in evidence too.

Coming out of the North Laines I went in search of the Duke of York – a  Picturehouse (Cinema to the rest of us).

The Duke is an art house cinema away from the main drag with the distinction of probably being the oldest cinema in Britain that has been in continuous use. It opened in 1910 and was one of the first picture houses to be built in the World. Given that so many cinemas have come and gone, it is amazing that his has kept going and in 2012 it was voted the best cinema in the UK.

Like some of the boutique cinemas in New Zealand created by Lord of the Rings Director Peter Jackson, the Duke has sacrificed some of its seating capacity to make it comfortable with sofas and chairs. It has a 12 foot model of Can Can dancers legs on the roof which came from a theatre in Oxford. 

Coming out of the cinema I saw a queue outside the fire station. Curious I followed it to what turned out to be Brighton and Hove fire station Open Day. How lovely. Children allowed to put on the helmets and climb into the fire engines and their dads taking selfies like children themselves. Ice-creams, raffles and then all of a sudden mayhem as firemen rushed around grabbing their kit and gently pulling children out of the fire tender and piling in themselves. 

‘A shout’ – and they were off sirens blaring.

Another iconic old building that refuses to be ignored is the exotic Royal Pavilion – a Palace built as a seaside residence for King George IV as a place where he could enjoy the charms of his girl friend  Maria Fitzherbert.

Today people were relaxing in the gardens in the sunshine.

Like some other towns I have visited on my trip around the coast of Great Britain, Brighton has two piers. Or it had.

The West Pier was opened in 1866 and closed in 1975 and became derelict. It has suffered from two fires and very little of it remains but a sort of skeleton and even what little was left has been largely demolished to make way for the i360.

What on earth is Brighton thinking to be installing a massive erection on the seafront? I can’t help thinking it was a joke that someone with very little imagination took seriously! The popular Brighton Eye has gone (WAS it sold to Weston Super mare?) and this structure is taking shape in front of the West Pier.

I360 is supposed to be an observation tower but 180 degrees will simply observe the sea unless one can see far enough to spot the French Coast? Apparently the ‘i’ in the brand represents independence and innovation. Shouldn’t that be i i then adding to the impression of saucy seaside postcards?

It is proposed to be the World’s tallest slenderest tower with the World’s only vertical cable car. Looks like a donut to me. The planners are hoping to get it into the Guinness Book of Records in 2017. At £15 a ticket I doubt I will be a vertical traveller. Personally I could have suggested other ways to spend the estimated £46 million it has cost to build. Hostels and real opportunities for rehabilitation for the homeless in Brighton for a start!!!

It is due to open in August. Happily I will not be there to witness it but I am sure thousands will.

Kemptown is the area east of Brighton centre. It feels a bit like a village. It has independent cafes and shops and was the only place today where I could get a standby haircut.

Two young men, one washed my hair and the other cut it...good job done fast and good value.

Last bit to do, walk on through the town and past the Pepper Pot.

It’s a listed building just by Queens Park at the top of Kemptown. It was once part of an estate but the house has long gone and this is all that remains. No idea what it might be used for today. Not really concerned as I am now knackered and need a cup of tea and a lie down in a darkened room.

At least I have been able to unload all the craft beers I had gathered for Ben and Freya on my trip  so my car is less likely to explode should I impact with anything on the last lap home tomorrow. !