Showing posts with label crafts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label crafts. Show all posts

Friday, 17 June 2016

Day 47: On Mountains and Midges

I’m retracing my path of yesterday towards Lochinver, along the single track roads up in the mountains. The Munroe mountains are said to be the highest in Scotland. Today with the lowering clouds you can’t see the peaks.


And although the weather is wet it’s still beautiful here.


At Scourie I met a new friend. 



I call him Boris and his mate Trump. Don’t know why – it just came to me. 


Most of this area is a designated National Geo Park – an area of considerable scientific and geological interest and you only have to look at the rock formations along the way to get an idea why. 

 



The National body responsible for looking after the area are brilliant at creating parking spaces all along the route where you can stop, look at the landscape and read the information boards telling you about the glaciers and the formation of the country. With no towns, no shops and little visible agriculture, this part of Scotland is all about the outdoors: biking, cycling, walking, (sometimes both)


-nature watching and camping.

This camper was under an enormous road bridge over the river Assynt. 



On the subject of camping, the Dutch caravan club was also on annual manoeuvres this morning. I counted a convey of 32 cars pulling caravans and the odd Camper van thrown in for variety, heading towards Lochinver. I understand they come over every year. The mountains must be a major draw to the Dutch. They have barely anything even remotely resembling a hill let alone mountains of such majesty as these. 

I passed by several very small hamlets and the very photogenic ruined Ardvreck castle. 


All of a sudden as I crested a hill, there was Ullapool laid out straight in front of me looking as if it was floating on Loch Broom. 

Ullapool is really nice and very white, virtually everywhere is painted white including the Indian take away. 





The owner of a lovely Gallery told me it was because in the past all the houses were painted with lime wash to preserve them from the salt. Now the old part of the town is a conservation area so the white painting is set in stone so to speak. 

There is a large modern Ferry terminal on the harbour because the ferry sails to the isle of Lewis. as well as smaller boats taking day trippers round the Summer Isles. 


Sounds so lovely but here is the reality of Scottish summer today. 


I was expecting it to be a bigger town but it is small with lots of galleries and gift shops and of course the inevitable fish and chips.


Very nice and freshly caught, but expensive. 

Like everywhere else on the coast of Britain there is a long history of fishing here.  In the 1970’s Ullapool became the base for many eastern European factory ships known as the Klondykers, who processed the mackerel that small bought caught and transported them back to their home bases. 

 



They are no longer part of Ullapool’s economy, but I saw Spanish fishing vessels in the harbour loading crates and crates of their catch directly into Spanish refrigerated lorries ready to return to Spain. Why? The cold water. Seafood is very popular in Europe and these waters produce the best lobster, crab and langoustines anywhere and are in very high demand. I don’t know quite how that works – European fishermen fishing off these waters and sending the catch out of the country -  but I suppose since no-one is rioting, it must work somehow.



The other large European presence in town today were the French 2 CV club. Apparently they often come to Scotland. 





The town was full of tourists today and some of the cafes were struggling to serve people. This is what the woman in Lochinver was implying when she said these towns don’t really have the infrastructure to deal with sudden influxes of visitors. Particularly when they are so irregular that they can’t be foreseen. There is almost no-one in the winter.

This is Polly Hoad. Polly doesn’t do white. She does unlimited colour. 


Her little shop is every hue imaginable. 



Polly has had a very interesting life so far. She was a light house keepers wife bringing up her family in very remote places. She studied art and textiles as a young woman, hence her love of colour. And every winter she shuts her home and her shop and travels the world looking for lovely things to bring back. She has recently commissioned a range of leather handbags which she designed. 

She had an accident a while ago and that left her with an element of brain damage, a useless hand and partial sight loss but that does not deter her from her travelling alone to places like India or Peru for her crafting. 

Polly weaves. 



This year as soon as her feet touched down at Inverness she made the decision to leave Scotland for Portugal where she plans to open a weaving studio teaching just four students at a time – in the warm sun. 

So her house in Ullapool and her business is up for sale and she is willing to act as mentor and buyer for the new owners if they want her to, for a period of two years from the sale. Sounds like a plan. 


If anyone out there is interested get in touch with her on: 01854 612439 or polly@ucolour.co.uk

When Scots on the East Coast heard I was continuing my travels by going along the top and down the west they told me that the West might have the beauty but it also had the midges. I see what they mean. In the damp they are out in force, clouds of tiny biting flies, so small you can hardly see them, nibbling away at any exposed part. The locals use a spray called Smidge. Boots don’t sell it. Tesco does. I will get some tomorrow first thing. 

Wednesday, 15 June 2016

Day 45: Forss, Reay, Sutherland, and Durness

Between Dunnet Bay and Castletown there is a stretch of high sand dunes that look as though they have been covered in green fur. They look really odd. It is grass growing in tufts – Marram grass in all probability.




There are two sorts of walls round the fields and houses round here too. One is dry stone construction like this

And the other looks very like tombstones! Neither use mortar.


There are more concrete buildings here that have an MOD feel about them too.

My unruly Sat Nav unreliably informed me that I could fill up with petrol in Castletown. Wrong! There is a garage but it has no petrol. 

I hoped that meant there was a shiny Tesco lurking on the outskirts... but no Tesco. Luckily on this occasion there is one at Thurso, so I can breathe again. I noticed that those in the know were all filling petrol cans to go in the boots of their cars.

Got to Forss but saw no trace of any 18th century drugs racket, and just a few miles on I came upon Dounreay Nuclear Power Station. I had seen information about it in Thurso yesterday.



It stopped working in 1994 and has been largely de-commissioned but something is still going on there. Look at all the cars. And I may be wrong, but there seemed to be some sort of police or military presence there. Lovely beaches nearby but I would be a bit wary of swimming there or drinking local water.

Reay is a pretty village and the local shop seems to have solved the petrol problem They have their own pumps.


Several towns in this area are advertising their upcoming Town Gala and are putting up jaunty bunting. I am looking forward to finding out what it entails. I assume it’s a sort of village fete and I will come across one soon and find out for myself.

As I drove into Sutherland I saw another stone sign welcoming me to 'Mackay County'. According to Erin and Richard at Thurso library, everyone in this county is called Mackay, Sutherland or Munro. When the Mackays put up the stone calling it Mackay Country, the others took umbrage and their stone was defaced and other signs with other names on them appeared. Not today though. Today the prize goes to the Mackays.



From here it is, 27 miles over the peat bogs and on single track mountain paths, interspersed by little villages and fabulous little sandy bays and the added hazard of sheep wandering across the road smiling.




With the roof down on Gloria, the air is full of the scent of gorse, smelling like coconut and vanilla.
I am not the only one on this road. There are cyclists.

I have come to the conclusion that the cyclists doing this road in their lycra, helmets and sweat pouring down their agonised red faces, are totally mad. This road from Thurso to Durness is tortuous. I am doing some of it in first gear on the way up and only second gear on the way down. I can only assume that the ghastly going up is compensated for by the exhilarating freewheeling down. 


Exhilarating but scary. Some are even towing small trailers behind them with tents and luggage. I bet the concept of electric bikes is looking rather attractive. 

This is simply one of the most spectacular roads I have ever travelled along and is up there with the Garden Route in South Africa.








Exquisite little coves and beaches and no-one on them.  What looks like a vast expanse of dry rocky acres of mountain is also misleading. There are pools of water in the peat everywhere. Some are as small as twenty foot across, others half a mile. No idea how deep.




After seeing nothing but mountain and free range sheep for miles on end, Bettyhill was eye candy and the views got better and better. Very glad to have asked Visit Scotland to try to find me accommodation for the next couple of days. There are no buildings here at all, let alone hotels or Bed and Breakfast. Where there are places they are sporting No Vacancy signs.

I stopped for lunch at one of the very few cafes on the route – The Weaver’s Cafe.




They had lovely homemade soup and sandwiches and a selection of crafts. Some were from Harray Potter of Orkney. This is not a deviation of harry potter for effect. 


The potter is actually Andrew Appleby from Fursbreck Pottery in Harray Village. He is well known and elderly and ready to retire so if one doesn’t take advantage and buy his work soon they won’t be able to.




Filling up with petrol still a serious concern for lots of people. Thirty bikers came through here last Sunday unaware that the village pump was only open for an hour. And not that hour they were there. The owner of the Weavers thinks it is red diesel that the locals are using. She is even considering getting a pump on her premises. Good idea. She could charge whatever she wants. People would pay gladly.

I crossed the beautiful causeway on the equally beautiful Kyle of Tongue



Then back on to A838 and into the mountains once more. About four miles outside Tongue I spotted what looked like peat – masses of it – cut into blocks and lying drying at the side of the road again in the middle of nowhere. Peat is a deposit of impacted plant material, mostly sphagnum moss,  that is unique to certain areas of the country and the World actually. This is one of those unique areas. It forms in waterlogged areas hence all the pools and lochs everywhere.



But who cut it? There is no house in sight anywhere - just a ruin of one. And is it for their personal use or for sale as heating fuel?



Durness is minute and spread out. I found the MacKay hotel and the bunkhouse where I am to stay tonight and tomorrow, easily. It is a purpose built hostel housing about 20 people and I have a private room which is a blessing otherwise I would be sharing a mixed gender room with the cyclists.





I went a bit further along the road to the Balnakeil CraftVillage where there is a artisan chocolate workshop. The centre has an interesting history having originally been an RAF military camp during the cold war. Now it is a collection of private homes and small craft businesses.








One of which is Cocoa mountain a chocolate making company. They have a cafe where they sell hot chocolate naturally, tea coffee and snacks.


Is this the best drinking chocolate in Scotland? Quite possibly.


Took so long drinking it that I got back to the bunkhouse after the only shop in the area had closed. No supper for me then.

Off to bed in my two bunk room which is literally smaller than a two man prison cell and is possibly against the Geneva Convention on human space. The only other two bunk cell, I mean room, has a Australian couple in it and they snore - loudly and not in unison.

Now why did no one suggest taking a pair of ear plugs on this trip?