Tuesday 17 May 2016

Day 17: NewBiggin-by-the-Sea, Warkworth, Almouth and Alnwick

Today was simply marvellous!

One can't imagine it now, but in the days when coal mines were working, NewBiggin-by-the Sea was a busy place - a port third in importance to London and Hull. 



These days it is a VERY quiet seaside town ideal for bird watchers and for people who want to get away from it all. I seem to be the only tourist. 

Today it is famous for three things:

1.  In 2007 it got a new sandy beach. 500,000 tons of sand, brought here from Skegness to replace the eroded beaches. 


2. A newly opened Maritime Centre which sadly opens at 11am and closes at 4pm. Sadly I am elsewhere


3. And bizarrely, the UKs first off shore sculpture. It's by Sean Henry.  
It is a man and woman standing on a jetty looking out to sea. It is called The Couple.


I was a member of the Imago Chorus at Glyndebourne a couple of years ago, and Sean Henry's  sculptures of people were dotted around the grounds for the season. Why here though? Who on earth thought of it?  

The fishing boats here are the traditional Cobles. They get towed into the sea by tractors.



A coble is a traditional open fishing boat that was developed in the North East of England. Dave in Whitby knows all about those.


There is a lot of holiday accommodation in Newbiggin. I have been staying in a flat I found on Airbnb. It is light, bright, clean and sea themed and lovely.





Today it's Harry Potter meets Downton Abbey at Alnwick Castle and thankfully after yesterday's fiasco, it's been simply marvellous. 

Just a few miles along the coast and we are in a different energy altogether. Amble was sadly nothing to write home about. Warkworth is a different story. The difference is money, self worth and employment I suspect. 



The castle is large with lots to see. People think it is a ruin because of over the border raiders, but the truth is closer to home. Apparently according to a local with whom I had coffee, the real culprits are the locals themselves. He suggested that most of the houses in Castle street are constructed with stone nicked from the castle. Makes a good tale even if its exaggerated. 




The town is everything I didn't get yesterday. Worth a coffee and cake stop. 

The Topsy Turvey Cafe was a brilliant coffee stop. A GF paradise- no less than 5 roulades. Make mine toffee and pecan. Spoilt for choice and Filter coffee with refills. 


A took a stroll through the town, then it was over the River Coquet and back on the coast. At last I am seeing the evidence for Northumberland’s claim to being an area of outstanding natural beauty. Wow!!

I need my daughter Morgan and her camera and her eye for landscape to do this justice. 


I saw Alnmouth from high on a hill on the A1068 and just had to stop. The items in the gift shop says it all really


Full of interesting places to eat.


 And lots of places to stay.


Alnmouth is on the river Aln where it goes into the North sea. It is very pretty and looks very expensive!!!




Alnwick castle and gardens have been the highlight of my trip to Northumberland so far. Simply marvellous. Apart from the Harry Potter Experience at Watford, this is my favourite tourist destination (and unlike Morgan my daughter, I am not normally particularly interested in castles.)

Before they even take any money off you there is the tree house to look at....

 


Potting shed cafe and restaurant 

 


with wooden furniture...


A tree top walk and two suspension bridges to cross. They move!!!

 

The gardens at Alnwick (pronounced Annick) are just stunning.

 

 


 


Water features...

 


Secret tunnels made of bamboo...



There is even a Poison Garden with guided tours.


The castle is fabulous. It is one of the UK’s largest inhabited castles and is the home of The Duke of Northumberland. For 700 years it was a fortress, for the last 150 it has been a home.




It is sumptuously decorated but one is not allowed to photograph the inside. It has frequently been used as a film location – most recently Harry Potter and Downton Abbey.


There is lots to see and do and it definitely a whole day out.

 





Finally I visited my idea of heaven -  the largest second hand bookshop in the UK - Barter Books in Alnwick.



It’s a rambling, quirky, second hand bookstore with an open fire, model trains a simple cafe and plenty of chairs. I was lucky to get out with just two books!!

 




What a brilliant day!!!

2 comments:

  1. Hi Michaele - we're back and catching up on your travels. We had a week in Warkworth last year and absolutely loved it. John was in castle and book-buying heaven. Seeing all the pics is making him giddy again ... I sense a history lesson coming ... argh. We're envious of your travels. John & Claire xx

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  2. That the trouble with bookshops, trying to get out with empty hands. I used to be terrible when every town had a record shop I always found something. Alnwick is beautiful I loved my visit there I was looking at my pictures only a few days ago. Keep on going I am enjoying reading your exploits.
    Don

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